Foundation Waterproofing

What is the best foundation waterproofing?

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    A building's foundation is one of the worst things that may happen. Foundations are what a house is built on and what keeps it standing. Foundation repairs are expensive and time-consuming.

    Most foundation problems are caused by water. Wet foundation dirt can lose strength and mold can grow, making underground living spaces unpleasant.

    Reinforced concrete foundations aren't watertight and crack. Vapour and moisture can get through. That could cause problems. Waterproofing concrete foundations means keeping water away from them.

    Water in the basement is one of the worst calls a contractor can get. We try to avoid this before backfilling a foundation. Effective foundation waterproofing costs more initially. The upfront expense is a bargain compared to having to excavate the entire foundation and remedy the problem. Add in reputation loss and client unpleasant feelings, and doing it properly from the start is cheap.

    Foundation waterproofing prevents water seepage and flooding from saturated soils. There are various methods and products for waterproofing a foundation, each with strong supporters. Like many house repairs, foundation water problems rarely have a single solution.

    Basement Solutions' contractors create waterproofing systems to match a home's demands.

    At Hitch Property Constructions, we offer the best range waterproofing services to rectify your water issues.

    Concrete Foundation Waterproofing

    Foundation Waterproofing


    Dampproofing is sometimes called foundation waterproofing. A waterproof coating is often put to a home's foundation to prevent soil moisture. This method doesn't prevent water from entering the basement through cracks and gaps. Effective basement waterproofing keeps out water and moisture.

    Dampproofing is an asphalt-based coating sprayed or brushed over foundation walls. Many states mandate dampproofing. Waterproof coatings can't cover large gaps or holes and are damaged by coarse or incorrect backfill.

    Waterproofing paints and primers

    DIY waterproofing often involves painting. Most waterproofing paint is a thicker variant of acrylic paint.

    Waterproofing paint won't block water seepage via fractures or porous concrete. Paint might peel if bubbles form under it. Paint can trap humidity in foundation walls, causing bigger, more expensive problems.

    Waterproofing paint is a cosmetic remedy that doesn't function if the water source isn't fixed.

    Exterior drainage systems

    The installation or replacement of drainage pipes, often known as a French drain system, is required for exterior foundation waterproofing. This process requires digging down to the foundation footer. On stop water from getting inside the foundation through the walls, a waterproof membrane is sometimes put to the exterior of the wall.

    Due to the excavation that must first take place, the cost of waterproofing an exterior foundation can be significantly higher than that of other options. The destruction of landscaping, porches, and driveways is another another drawback of the project. Even if they are placed properly, French drains frequently become clogged with silt and plant roots, and they are particularly susceptible to being crushed during the process of backfilling.

    Interior drainage systems

    The foundation waterproofing approach that causes the least amount of disruption is a system that is planned around interior drainage. The forces of hydrostatic pressure, also known as the pressure of groundwater pushing its way through the basement walls, can be effectively mitigated with the installation of an interior waterproofing system.

    Jackhammering is done around the internal perimeter of the concrete floor, and then drainage piping is laid down. This directs any water that may find its way into the basement to a sump pump system, which then actively removes the water. It is common practice to advocate installing a backup sump pump that operates off of a battery in the event that there is a loss of electrical power.

    Steps to concrete foundation waterproofing

    If we claim that it is certainly worthwhile to invest time and money in doing a superb concrete foundations waterproofing since the project design, then no one will argue with us. This is because it eliminates the need to go back to the site, excavate it, and then remedy the problem. It is quite important to get it correctly on the first go. To achieve this goal, it is essential to keep in mind that the watertight barrier is only one component of a much larger and more involved system to prevent the entry of water.

    Some of the essential components, in addition to proper wall construction, of a waterproofing system are:

    • Installation of a drainage system: grade level and underground;
    • Installation/Application of the waterproofing barrier.

    Drainage: on Grade and Below Grade

    This includes drainage pipes to move water away from foundations and surface water treatment.

    Before waterproofing, drainage must be installed. No waterproofing system will work without proper drainage, and a manufacturer won't guarantee his products if there's inadequate or no drainage. On-grade and below-grade drainage are needed. The tops of foundation walls are the first line of defense against a wet interior.

    Thanks to many years of experience working in contact with waterproofing contractors, we have some suggestions of actions to implement water drainage at the ground level:

    • Use a gutter and downspout system to keep the water that comes off the roof from accumulating near the foundations;
    • Use compact backfill next to the foundation walls;
    • Sloping should be done so the water goes away from the house;
    • Keep in mind that, even well graded surfaces can change with time so the ground around the house may need to be checked from time to time.

    Installation of the waterproofing barrier

    Next, the foundation walls are waterproofed. Before that, we must inspect the wall surface and repair larger cracks with anti-shrinkage mortar. For waterproofing to work, walls must be clean and dry. Remove dirt, loose or weak material, and other substances that could impede waterproofing. Bitumen-modified felts, cementitious coating systems, elastomeric systems, and others can waterproof foundations.

    Safety when waterproofing foundations

    As in any kind of job, safety must always be at the center of our attention. Even more when the nature of the intervention includes the presence of some elements that may harm the people involved. When waterproofing foundations, there are different factors to consider:

    • Flammable materials;
    • Respiration hazard;
    • Skin injuries;
    • Injection hazard;
    • Eye Injuries.

    As a matter of fact, several waterproofing materials are solvent- based which means that they need to be far from any ignition source. Also, because of that it is extremely dangerous if those products enter in direct contact with the users’ skin or are breathed in by the water proofers.

    Looking for the best waterproofing company? Look no further! Hitch Property Constructions has you covered.

    Why Winkler Scudo System could be the best solution

    Winkler Scudo System is a water-based trowel-grade waterproofing product made of special highly elastic resins and additives, resistant to piercing. Its main features are:

    • Highly adhesive;
    • Easy and fast to apply with a trowel;
    • Ready to use;
    • No primers needed;
    • No backfill protection;
    • Environmentally friendly;
    • High recycled material content;
    • Manufactured in Italy in a Zero Environmental Impact Production Plant (100% Renewable Energy);
    • Water- based;
    • No toxic fumes;
    • Increased safety.

    What causes basement moisture?

    In order to have the most effective understanding of how to maintain the dryness of your basements, we need to have a comprehensive understanding of the factors that lead to the formation of moisture in basements in the first place. Water has an uncanny ability to find its way into homes, which is a source of frustration for homeowners. Basements, by virtue of their specific characteristics and the way they are built, are particularly susceptible to the accumulation of moisture. The following are some of the most common factors that contribute to condensation in basements:

    Improper Soil and Drainage Systems

    It is possible for rainwater and groundwater to seep into your basement if the water cannot drain away as it should. One of the most common reasons for dampness in basements is the presence of improper soil and inadequate drainage systems. If water is not diverted away from the house, it will pool around the foundation, and then it will attempt to enter the house through any opening it can find.

    Poorly Installed and Maintained Gutters

    Rainwater should be directed away from the foundation of your home by using gutters. If they are not installed correctly or if they become so clogged that they are unable to function properly, water will drain around your foundation rather than away from it.

    Improper Slope

    It is important that the land around your home's foundation slope away from your house rather than toward it. If the slope is incorrect, water will pool around your foundation rather than draining away from it, which puts your home at risk of flooding.

    Hydrostatic Pressure

    When water gathers around your foundation, a phenomenon known as hydrostatic pressure can develop. As the force of gravity presses down on that water, the water will attempt to escape in order to relieve the pressure that is being applied. The water will find its way into your basement through any cracks that may exist in the floors or walls. The pressure can become so intense, in point of fact, that it will cause cracks to appear.

    Cracks in Your Basement

    Cracks in the walls, floors, and around windows or doors in your basement provide the ideal pathway for water to travel through and seep into the space below. These cracks make it simple for water to find its way inside, which is important to keep in mind because water will always find the path that offers the least amount of resistance.


    Basements are notoriously damp places. When condensation occurs, it can bring mildew, mold, and potential damage along with it.

    Black Goo Doesn’t Cut It

    In the past, asphalt-based goo was used to waterproof foundations. This byproduct of oil refining is not waterproof, but dampproof. Asphalt goo can only prevent moisture from damp soil from seeping into concrete. Moisture that saturates the soil can force water through asphalt dampproofing.

    Effective foundation waterproofing requires a membrane to protect the concrete, a drainage mat to relieve hydrostatic pressure and allow water to drain down, not in, and a French drain at the footing level to carry water to a daylight drain or sump pump.

    First Line of Defense

    The first step in the construction process is to apply a true waterproofing material to the exterior surface of the foundation walls. This is the first component in the system. This can be a coating that is applied with liquid or it can be a membrane that you peel and stick.

    Liquid-applied membrane.

    Newer liquid-applied SBR (styrene-butadiene rubber) materials waterproof concrete. They're true waterproofing because they're insoluble in water and can resist hydrostatic pressure (though we want to limit it, as I'll explain). Spraying a liquid creates a continuous, monolithic membrane. At critical areas—footer-to-wall transitions, inside corners, pipe penetrations—a liquid material conforms to surface variations without origami.

    Peel-and-stick membranes

    alternative waterproofing To protect the footing joint, I apply a 40-mil membrane to the footing ledge and up the wall about a foot. This cold-joint barrier's vertical leg should be covered with a 3-foot-wide, 40-mil peel-and-stick product. Vertical membranes are typical. Most concrete peel-and-stick products require a primer. After rolling on the primer, we remove the membrane's backing to apply it, creating a strong adhesive-to-adhesive bond.

    Insulation goes over the waterproofing membrane. We need 1 inch of foam; in the north, more. We've had success installing insulation with plastic stab anchors. Peel-and-stick adhesive bonds anchors to wall membrane. Now we just need to push on the insulation to secure it. Drainage mat anchors can be reused. The waterproofing membrane must have no holes.

    Drain Down

    After waterproofing the foundation, many builders start backfilling. By doing so, water can back up against the membrane and cause a leak.

    A drain board over the membrane is ideal. This drain board provides an air gap so water running towards the foundation flows to the footing drains. Consider the gap a pressure release. Water pressure can't build against the foundation if there's a gap.

    The drain board protects the waterproofing membrane from rocks or road base.

    Drain Out

    Any foundation waterproofing system that protects from water and relieves hydrostatic pressure must drain. We always use a traditional French drain system, which Americans have used for generations. This is a rock-bed drain pipe. Schedule 40 is 4-inch. Schedule 20 can collapse (and corrugated black pipe seems worthless), so use thicker-walled PVC. Pre-drilled holes face down. The perimeter pipe is covered with coarse gravel or septic rock, which must be separated from the soil with filter fabric.

    In many houses I build, we install a second French drain inside the footing. Schedule 40 runs crosswise through the footing every 8 to 10 feet to connect the inside and outside drainage. If one drain section fails, water can bypass to the interior or exterior path and escape.

    On a hilly site, the perimeter drain can be run to daylight, but we usually use a sump pump. Sump pumps fail during heavy rains from overwork or when the power goes out. We always include a secondary pump with a battery backup in case the primary pump fails.

    We have a huge range of waterproofing services Melbourne at Hitch Property Constructions that offers stress-free services for any water problem you got!

    Which Method is Right for You?

    Each home is different, as we've said. Your best waterproofing method may differ from your neighbor's. Basement maintenance involves many factors. Prevention is always better than repair. Before water arrives, waterproof your basement for the best results. Water damage causes costly repairs and headaches.

    Waiting to waterproof your basement can lead to bigger bills in the future. Basement waterproofing methods vary, so do your research to find the best one.

    It's your biggest investment. It must be protected. Do something before a problem arises. Preventative measures keep basements dry and wallets full. Waterproofing can help your basement stay dry this winter.

    FAQs About Waterproofing

    Waterproofing is the process of making an object or structure waterproof or water-resistant so that it remains relatively unaffected by water or resisting the ingress of water under specified conditions. Such items may be used in wet environments or underwater to specified depths.

    Waterproofing is a method which prevents water from penetrating your house. Waterproofing is very important as it helps keep your house dry. It helps reduce humidity inside the house and thereby protects things inside your house from damage caused due to humidity or water exposure.

    Waterproofing seals the cracks in your home's foundation that are unseen to the naked eye. Essentially diverting ground water away from your home. If water gets in your home through the walls or ceilings, it can cause mold to grow. Mold grows within 24 to 48 hours.

    Waterproofing is not Permanent !!!

    These facts are played to escape the service liabilities by contractors, construction workers and engineers who just want to do waterproofing without technical know-how, skillsets and experience.

    Exterior basement waterproofing can deal with all of these issues. The basic method involves excavating the soil away from the external basement wall, installing the appropriate moisture barrier, filling the surrounding area with gravel, and establishing a footer draining system.

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