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How to Fit a Weatherboard

The installation of Cedral weatherboard cladding is really comparable to the approach described further down, with some crucial differences and possible problems.

The cladding battens are much bigger to permit increased airflow, and must be fitted a set range apart and screwed in a specific place to prevent the boards from rattling in strong wind. A DPC membrane needs to also be used on the corners and joints in order to prevent water damage to the weatherboard cladding. Looking for the best weatherboard repairs  company? Look no further! Hitch Property Constructions has you covered.

These instructions are often overlooked by unqualified fitters, and when this cladding is not fitted by a Cedral installer, moisture typically ends up caught behind the weatherboards. This moisture is then soaked up by the cladding and ultimately causes efflorescence, staining and peeling paint due to damp conditions.

Most of us nowadays take it for given that, once the front door of your house, flat, barn conversion or anywhere you call house is closed, then you are completely sealed and weather condition evidence.

Depending upon the kind of front door you have, this might not necessarily hold true as if you do not have a weatherboard fitted to your door then you might be enabling water and wetness to sneak in under the door itself.

If you have a contemporary uPVC or composite door then normally you are pretty safe. Most of these kinds of door will feature an integral seal constructed into the door itself that will prevent any form of wetness from entering the property, however, over time, these seals will themselves compress and weaken increasing the possibilities of moist getting in.

What is Weatherboard?

Basically, a door weatherboard is an angled or bevelled piece of Timber, metal or stiff plastic that is fixed to the bottom of an exterior door that fits between the door jambs (or stiles as they are also known).

They are most frequently found on lumber doors, and their primary purpose is to stop water from diminishing the face of the door itself and reaching the frequently unguarded underside where it can then soak into the lumber and over time rot it out.

It’s another purpose aside from securing the doors underside, is to stop water from entering into a residential or commercial property through any spaces between the door itself and whatever might be underneath it. This could be a flooring, base of a door frame, door sill or threshold etc.

As you might observe in the image listed below, in the base of the weatherstrip or drip bead, there is a small recess. The main function of this is to prevent any water or leaks tracking backwards.

Once it reaches the recess, it then merely drops down to the floor well clear of the door itself.

Some producers will likewise fit a rubber strip to this recess that, once the door is closed, produces a seal between the base of the door and the flooring, frame or threshold, that provides a more barrier.

We have discussed 777currently, if you have a uPVC door or undoubtedly a composite door then in some cases it might not be required to have a weatherboard fitted (although a lot of doors of this type come with one already fitted).

This is because of the fact that many doors of this type are fitted within a frame that contains the entire door within it.

Sealed into the edge of the frame is a spongy rubber seal that, when the door is closed, seals any space between the door and the frame and develops an impenetrable barrier avoiding any possibility of water getting in.

Despite this, most uPVC plastic and composite doors are supplied with a weatherboard for good practice as they also stop any buildup of water along with the seal at the base that can gather and when the door is opened, then spills in.

For some odd factor, hardwood and Timber outside doors extremely seldom come fitted with a weatherstrip or board, even though the weatherboard itself is primarily tailored towards preventing water ingress and damage on exactly these kinds of doors.

Potentially this is because of the reality that you may need to cut the door to fit, but that’s a question for another day.

With the above in mind, if you have a timber door, you will require to buy your own.

If you have actually ever seen a steady door (a door that’s divided in the centre and both top and bottom can be opened or closed), then you might also have seen that there is often a weatherboard fitted to the base of the top section of the door in addition to the base of the bottom one.

Types and Styles of Weatherboard


Wood weatherboards are a very standard cladding system and are offered in a variety of profiles and wood species. Different profiles can be installed horizontally, vertically and, in some cases, on the diagonal. Normally, they are not part of a proprietary system, although some total systems are available.

Main timber species are radiata pine, macrocarpa and western red cedar. Macrocarpa and cedar weatherboards are durable when left natural (although they will discolour), while pine boards must be coated with a paint or stain. Dark colours need to be prevented, as high UV direct exposure will trigger distortion.

All wood weatherboards have a degree of absorbency (reliant upon types and surface area finish) and therefore can be installed over an absorbent or non-absorbent wall underlay. Some types of Timber utilized for weatherboards require to be dealt with for resilience. Wood treatment requirements are covered by NZS 3602:2003 Timber and wood-based items for use in the building.

Bevel-back horizontal lumber weatherboards

Bevel-back weatherboards are known as a reasonably air leaky cladding system. Even when the boards are direct-fixed, air can penetrate the assembly at the laps and distribute within deep spaces developed by the lap at the back of the boards. Water that leakages into the assembly can drain down the back of the boards and, in some cases, out through the laps or be dried by the flowing air.

Shiplap vertical timber weatherboards

Shiplap board cladding systems really air leaky. The thin section of the board that overlaps the adjacent board tends to move and misshape, and this allows air to go into at the lap. There is likewise the potential for rainwater to be driven in at the lap. However, this distortion lets water drain pipes out too.

There is vertical space between the boards, and while this is quite little, it does permit some airflow and vertical drain to occur. At Hitch Property Constructions, we offer Melbourne weatherboard repairs services.

While shiplap boards have great potential for air entry, they do not have deep space of bevel-back boards, as they fit difficult to the wall frame (with a high contact location with the wall underlay) and as a result do not have as excellent a drainage and drying capacity.

Board and batten vertical timber weatherboards

These systems integrate flat vertical boards with cover battens over the board joints. The edge of each board needs to include a weather groove that lines up with a comparable groove on the cover battens– this offers an excellent capillary break and limits water entry.

The boards must likewise be installed with a 5– 6 mm gap in between them. This space permits great vertical drainage for water that has leaked through the system and for airflow, and it likewise offers a good capillary break.


These are readily available in a variety of structures, densities and profiles. They are also usually an exclusive system that incorporates a range of compatible elements and must always be installed in accordance with the maker’s directions.

Fibre-cement is a very absorbent product, and the boards need to be painted to be made weathertight and durable. Dark colours need to be avoided to prevent distortion (although there are some compositions that are more stable).

Fibre-cement boards tend to be more firmly repaired and more stable than timber boards, so the installed system is not as air dripping. Thinner boards offer very little spaces at the laps although thicker bevel-back style boards have similar-sized voids to those of bevel-back wood boards. In general, fibre-cement weatherboards have less drain and drying capability than lumber weatherboards.

Check the producer’s requirements regarding installation requirements for weather tightness threat. In general, for buildings with a danger level of 6 or below, fibre-cement weatherboards or planks can be fixed straight. Bevel-back fibre-cement weatherboards are not covered by E2/AS1. However, the requirement for a cavity follows the E2/AS1 recommendations for wood bevel-back weatherboards.

All fibre-cement weatherboards are vulnerable to:

  • thermal motion
  • wetness absorption
  • moisture penetration at board ends if not properly sealed.


These are available in a variety of profiles and product compositions, are prefinished and come in various integral colours. They are normally an exclusive clip-together system that includes a series of compatible parts and must constantly be installed in accordance with the producer’s instructions.

Because they are impacted by temperature, thermal movement and fading through UV can be an issue. To counter this, they are only offered in light colours.

The system includes voids behind the boards. These spaces, integrated with the jointing system, make it a really air leaky system– while water may get in, the system offers substantial drying capability. The boards are also non-absorbent, which makes for quite a robust cladding system. However, they do need to be installed over an absorbent wall underlay when they are direct-fixed.

Check the maker’s specification regarding setup requirements for weathertightness risk. While not covered by E2/AS1, in general, for structures with a danger level of 6 or below, UPVC weatherboards can be repaired directly. Above this, they are installed over a small 20 mm cavity.

All UPVC weatherboards are susceptible to:

  • thermal movement
  • brittleness and fading (as a result of UV exposure).

How to Fit a Weatherboard

There are a dreadful lot of different weather condition bars out there from many makers, there is the simple wood “drips” in oak or hardwood, or there are the aluminium bars with rubber seals and in different designs consisting of for handicapped gain access to.

Recommendations differ depending upon the type of bar or drip selected, so ensure you read any producers instructions.

1. Start by determining the width of the door and cut any top drip (wood or otherwise) to the width between the door frame stops – this is the location on the external face that is narrowest in width between the frame, not the jamb. If utilizing a very dry (as described listed below) the part that rests on the floor or sill must be cut in between the door jamb.

2. Cut a small angle to any of the weather condition bar tops drips as this is needed at the end where the door fulfils the frame on the lock side, this will prevent the bar jamming when the door is swung open or closed.

 It is better (in our opinion) to use the Weatherten bar (one of two types revealed opposite) instead of the wood weather condition drips (revealed listed below) which are extremely traditional and are typically fitted to the face of the door at the bottom rail, the bottom of the weather type bar is fitted between the door and the doorstep or sill and integrates a drip which when it is fitted to the door interlocks when the door is closed.

3. Stain or Prime and Undercoat

Prior to fitting it’s a good idea to totally stain or prime and undercoat the whole strip as this will supply complete weather protection and guarantee it lasts for a great long while.

Before including your selected protective finishing, provide it with a light rub over first using 240+ grit sandpaper to take off any rough edges and likewise to offer a good secret to your last finishing’s. Check out Hitch Property Constructions for a huge range of weatherboard repairs Melbourne services. 

If staining, use your very first coat over the entire things, ensuring you completely cover any nooks or crannies and after that permit to dry for manufacturers advised time prior to applying any second or third coats.

If priming/undercoating, use your guide, ensuring you are utilizing the correct type and after that permit to dry before using your guide. Check with the producer’s directions regarding whether you need to use a couple of coats.

When primer and undercoats are dry, apply your finishing coat. Normally this will be a colour match to the finish of your existing door. However, this is truly down to you.

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